Exfoliation for dry skin What you can expect: Can you exfoliate dry skin? Is AHA or BHA good for dry skin? What should I use to exfoliate my dry skin? Can you exfoliate dry skin? If you have dry or very dry skin, many exfoliants can be a no-go as they can make skin drier and more irritated than before. However, research has shown that daily exfoliation is vital to remove dead skin cells and reveal soft, smooth, radiant-looking skin so yes, exfoliating does help dry skin. AHA exfoliants in particular are really beneficial in this case – the secret is simply choosing the right texture and concentration. Is AHA or BHA good for dry skin? At Paula’s Choice we have two types of leave-on exfoliants: BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) and AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid). BHA is ideal for oily, blemish-prone skin because it exfoliates inside pores and helps prevent breakouts. While AHAs are recommended for normal to dry and sun-damaged skin because they exfoliate the skin’s surface while encouraging it to hold onto more moisture. We also have an occasional-use rinse-off AHA exfoliant peel which tends to be more potent, offering multi-level exfoliation with a higher concentration of acids that do their jobs faster, often within minutes. What should I use to exfoliate my dry skin? AHAs, even though they’re called “acids”, are much gentler than traditional scrubs or cleansing brushes. There are several types of AHAs, but two of the most effective and well-researched are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Bear in mind that products containing glycolic acid and lactic acid are most effective in concentrations between 5% and 10%. Discover the different kinds of AHAs suitable for dry skin: Glycolic acid Glycolic acid occurs naturally in sugar cane and is the most researched AHA. Studies show that glycolic acid (as well as lactic acid) demonstrates the most impressive results for all ages and skin types. Its small molecular size enables it to easily penetrate through the top layers of skin and reveal the healthier-looking skin beneath. Those using glycolic acid for dry skin will be pleased to know that it can both hydrate skin and ‘teach’ skin to retain its natural moisture. When used in concentrations of 5% and upwards, glycolic acid can also improve firmness and resilience while lessening other signs of sun damage. Lactic acid Lactic acid can be derived from milk and works more or less the same as glycolic acid. The difference is that its molecular size is slightly bigger so it works more slowly and has a lower ability to penetrate the skin’s top layers. Lactic acid at a 2% concentration hydrates skin and from 5-10% works as an exfoliant. Malic acid This AHA occurs naturally in apples and it has a bigger molecular size than glycolic and lactic acids. It can still exfoliate the skin and it carries benefits from antioxidant properties. At a concentration of 1-2%, malic acid is sometimes added to AHA exfoliants already containing glycolic acid and lactic acid, enabling exfoliation in different layers of skin. Tartaric acid Tartaric acid appears in grapes (and so red wine) and it has a slightly larger molecular size than malic acid and twice as big as glycolic acid. Tartaric acid can function as an exfoliant when used in the same concentrations as glycolic acid or lactic acid and can enable exfoliation in different layers of the skin. But tartaric acid is mostly used to help other exfoliants stick to the right pH range. This is essential to optimise an exfoliant’s effectiveness. Mandelic acid Mandelic acid shouldn’t be underestimated. As the AHA with the largest molecular size, it is able penetrate the skin more slowly which is great news for those with sensitive skin. Research has shown that mandelic acid can stimulate skin to produce more oil, which is not ideal for people with oily or combination skin but can be beneficial for those with dry skin. Citric acid Citric acid is found in a variety of different citrus fruits. In concentrations of 10% and higher it can work as an exfoliant, but it is seen to be more irritating as it has a low pH of 2.2. In a lot of skincare formulas, you will find citric acids used in small proportions as an antioxidant. They are also used to adjust pH levels, ensuring formulas keep to a pH level which is efficient and gentle on the skin. Some AHAs claim that they contain citric acids that work as natural exfoliants. That’s all very well, but there is no research proving that these kinds of extracts are able to exfoliate skin.