What does azelaic acid do for your skin? The original version of this article was reviewed by Dr. Debra Jaliman, dermatologist Azelaic acid was one of the best kept skincare secrets, mostly known in medical and professional settings, but now it is highly sought after by everyone. All thanks to clear research showing its ability to: significantly diminish the appearance of blemishes, help fade post-acne marks and other discolourations, refine the skin surface and also reduce sensitivity. In short, this is an ingredient you need to know about. What you can expect: What is azelaic acid? Azelaic acid benefits What is azelaic acid used for? How to use azelaic acid Who should use azelaic acid & who should not? How long does azelaic acid take to work? Azelaic acid side effects Is azelaic acid an exfoliant? Can I use vitamin C & azelaic acid together? Can I use azelaic acid with retinol? What not to mix with azelaic acid What is azelaic acid? Essentially, this is an ingredient with a radar-like ability to interrupt whatever is causing your skin to act up. Skin "hears" this message and responds favourably, prompting a better complexion – no matter your age, skin type or concern. In detail, azelaic acid is a skin-friendly dicarboxylic acid with unique properties, working to decrease misbehaviour on and within the skin's uppermost layers. Without azelaic acid’s help, this misbehaviour would build up to form persistent, visible skin imperfections (like dark spots and post-blemish marks), dull skin tone and signs of sensitivity. Formulations can derive this ingredient from grains like barley, wheat and rye. However, the lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare because of its greater stability and efficacy. Azelaic acid benefits A lot of the research only dives into topical prescription products in 15-20% concentrations, but there are benefits to be seen at lower concentrations too. Azelaic acid works with: A mild exfoliating action that helps unclog pores & refine skin surface Tone-evening properties to help fade post-acne marks & other discolourations Significant calming factors to reduce sensitivity & bumps An antioxidant power that contributes to healthier-looking skin What is azelaic acid used for? Not only can this ingredient tackle uneven tone, it also calms redness and smooths the skin. Depending on the percentage of azelaic acid, you can opt for either prescription or OTC (over-the-counter) skincare products. Dark spots Reducing the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone is the main claim to fame, as well as drawing comparison with vitamin C. Azelaic acid for skin evens out tone by helping interrupt an enzyme (tyrosinase) in the uppermost layers that would otherwise lead to these concerns. It also helps reduce the appearance of dark spots that incur from previous inflammation, life changes, environmental damage and injury. Redness This multi-tasker is also routinely used to help soothe and calm the redness that’s often associated with irritation and sensitivity. Thankfully, it is suitable for rosacea- and eczema-prone skin. Studies show that azelaic acid helps decrease visible redness, though more research can be conducted to show just how the ingredient achieves this result. Skin texture If you use azelaic acid every day, you may see fewer clogged pores and bumps as well as a radiant, healthier look. This is because it has mild exfoliating properties that refine skin texture. Also, with its keratolytic abilities, it can break down the dull and dead outer layers of skin. How to use azelaic acid This ingredient “plays” well with others, meaning you can add it to your routine without worrying about overpowering or deactivating other ingredients. If it’s an over-the-counter product, apply once or twice daily. If it’s prescription strength, follow the advice of your pharmacist. Who should use azelaic acid & who should not? With widespread compatibility for all skin types and typically well-tolerated, this is a safe ingredient even by those with sensitive skin. How long does azelaic acid take to work? Like other bioactive ingredients, you’ll see results from first application. Visibly soothed sensitivity is an immediate benefit, while the visible reduction of dark spots and uneven tone will appear after 1-3 months of consistent usage. All assuming that you’re protecting your skin from UV light exposure and applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every day. Azelaic acid side effects It is a fairly gentle skincare ingredient for all ages and ethnicities. But if you have reactive, sensitive skin or a compromised skin barrier, an active ingredient can cause dryness, flaking or irritation. That’s why it’s important to monitor your skin's response to each new ingredient. Adverse reactions and side effects are uncommon but, as always, if you experience signs of irritation then stop application all together or try less frequent application (once every other day, for example). Is azelaic acid an exfoliant? It can exfoliate skin when properly formulated, but it doesn’t exfoliate the same way (or to the same degree) as AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid or BHA, salicylic acid. On the other hand, our multi-tasker offers additional benefits that AHA and BHA don’t provide, especially when it comes to improving uneven skin tone and sensitivity. Can I use azelaic acid and AHA or BHA exfoliants together? Yes, in fact, this combination can be ideal for addressing the look of multiple skin concerns, from bumps to uneven skin tone and any age-related concerns you might be struggling with. Can I use vitamin C & azelaic acid together? Yes, you can use these ingredients together, in fact it can help speed up results for evening skin tone and fading marks. All because your skincare is targeting the issue from multiple angles. Layering can either mean a product combing both ingredients OR two separate products applied on top of each other. Just remember to always round out your routine with the application of a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ during the day. Can I use azelaic acid with retinol? Applying azelaic acid with retinol is a safe and viable option, especially if you’re looking to tackle a mix of skin concerns like anti-ageing, uneven tone and bumps. Just as with azelaic acid and vitamin C, you can look for a product that contains both ingredients or can layer products that contain each over one another. If you’re using any prescription skincare, consult with your dermatologist before layering and combining. Listen to your skin! If using both ingredients isn't working for you, try using one in the morning and the other at night. What should you not mix with azelaic acid? There is nothing you can’t mix with azelaic acid. None of the research suggests problems with combining azelaic acid and ingredients like niacinamide or peptides. Of course, if you’re using a prescription product, consult your GP on how to work it into your skincare routine. References for this information Current Drug Therapy, June 2020, pages 181-193 Indian Dermatology Online Journal, November-December 2017, pages 406-442 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2015, pages 964-968 Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, October 2016, pages 771-775 Journal of Molecular Structure, January 2021, pages 129-234 Phamaceutics, April 2021, page 567 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2016, Issue 3, pages 269-282 The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, March 2017, pages 37-40 Experimental Dermatology, September 2010, pages 813-820 Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, June 2020, 239-246 International Journal of Toxicology, July-August 2012, pages 5S-76S The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, February 2018, pages 28-37 Advanced Biomedical Research, February 2017, ePublication Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, April 2013, pages 434-437
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