Mandelic Acid

Best

Exfoliant

Mandelic Acid at a glance

  • The gentlest alpha hydroxy acid
  • Excellent choice for sensitive skin
  • Helps firm and fade post-breakout marks

Mandelic Acid description

Mandelic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). There’s some research showing mandelic acid is an effective exfoliant, although it’s not as effective as glycolic acid due to its larger size (it’s twice as big as glycolic acid) and slower penetration into skin; however, these traits can also make mandelic acid more tolerable for those with sensitive skin. Unlike glycolic acid, mandelic acid is light-sensitive and must be packaged in an opaque container to remain effective. It may be synthetic or derived from almonds. Like other AHAs, mandelic acid is most effective in leave-on products that are within a 3-4 pH range. A couple studies have shown that mandelic acid and salicylic acid worked well together in a higher-strength peel for use on darker skin tones struggling with discolourations, including post-blemish marks. However, what we don’t know is how well mandelic acid would’ve worked on its own - it’s possible the results were more from salicylic acid than the combination of the two acids. Other research has shown mandelic acid can increase sebum (oil) production, which isn’t great for oily skin but would be a benefit for dry skin.

Mandelic Acid references

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, February 2023, pages 517–528; and February 2020, pages 393–399
  • Molecules, September 2022, pages 1–11
  • Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, December 2020, Volume 83, Issue 6 and September 2018, pages 503-518
  • Dermatologic Surgery, March 2016, pages 384-391; and January 2009, pages 59-65
  • Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, June 2013, pages 140-145

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.

Ingredient ratings

Best

Proven and supported by independent studies. Outstanding active ingredient for most skin types or concerns.

Good

Necessary to improve a formula's texture, stability, or penetration.

Average

Generally non-irritating but may have aesthetic, stability, or other issues that limit its usefulness.

Bad

There is a likelihood of irritation. Risk increases when combined with other problematic ingredients.

Worst

May cause irritation, inflammation, dryness, etc. May offer benefit in some capability but overall, proven to do more harm than good.

unknown

We couldn't find this in our ingredient dictionary. We log all missing ingredients and make continuous updates.

Not rated

We have not yet rated this ingredient because we have not had a chance to review the research on it.